Remembering Friends in New Orleans
We do have news regarding our three chef friends in
New Orleans who had taught here for us more than a few
times.
We were shocked and saddened by the news that our friend, Chef Austin Leslie, of New Orleans, died recently following Hurricane Katrina. He was rescued by boat after two days in his home's attic, spent a day and a half on a bridge, was brought to the Superdome, and then an army base in Arkansas. His wife had evacuated before the hurricane and sent him a bus ticket so they could be reunited in Dallas. They ended up in Atlanta at his nephew’s home where 38 relatives were finding refuge, a real testament to family values. He was hospitalized with an infection and died shortly thereafter. This is truly a tragedy. His life was celebrated with the first jazz funeral held in New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina.
He was a genius with creole flavors and savored everything life had to offer. His restaurant, Chez Helene, was famous in town and served as the inspiration for the well-made, yet short-lived television show, Frank's Place, with Tim Reid. Circumstances beyond his control forced the restaurant to close, and he went on to cook at other establishments in the city. The last lucky restaurant to have him was Pampy’s Creole Kitchen.
We had the pleasure of first meeting Austin at Jack
Leondardi's restaurant, Jacques-Imo's, in the
riverbend section of New Orleans where one side of the
menu featured Austin's creole/soul food genius and the
other featured Jack's "gourmet" Cajun. He immediately
gave me a copy of a small cookbook he had written and
signed it with his usual flourish, drawing his own
profile and signature captain's hat.
In August of 2001 he and Jack were invited to be guest chefs at the prestigious James Beard House in Manhattan. They and their crew of 5 other chefs came to our home afterward and spent a few days, teaching two memorable classes at the school. He presented me with his newest cookbook on this trip--a treasure trove of great recipes and insight. He was very excited about it and his upcoming marriage.
Every time I make his fried chicken I remember his generous nature and big smile. Knowing I will never see him again makes the memories even more special. Thanks for everything, Austin!
In related news, Jack Leonardi survived Katrina and spent some time in Manhattan where he had opened Jacques-Imo's To Geaux on the dining concourse of Grand Central and a full restaurant at 366 Columbus Avenue at 77th Street. I recently had the pleasure of getting some food "to geaux" and the guys there said Jack went to Thailand after his NYC visit to study cooking. He's back in New Orleans now working on getting Jacques-Imo's reopened.
Jack taught the first class ever at our former location on Pequot Trail in Stonington when it was brand new and not quite finished! It was a memorable event! The gas stoves and water for the building were only hooked up that afternoon; the floor and countertops were plywood and only one sink was working; the entry deck had just been installed the night before; we finished grocery shopping only an hour before guests arrived; and some students sat on boxes of flooring that had yet to be installed! Jack's personality and the great food more than made up for the casual atmosphere! Needless to say, we all slept well that night from exhaustion and savored leftovers the next day.
Our orignial chef contact in New Orleans, Michael
DeVidts, had introduced us to both Jack and Austin.
Michael, who taught for us many times, has been
staying in Houston with relatives, but moved home the
beginning of November. His house was in pretty good
shape; in fact, he has a few displaced friends living
there with him. He reports that the city just doesn't
feel the same. The sights, sounds, levels of activity,
and smells are all different. We wish him well and are
working on getting him up here soon.